Passive Solar House
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In 1982, when my wife and I decided to build a large 46-ft. by 60-ft. "passive solar" house with 26 ft. high specially constructed arch rafters, finding an efficient heating system became a priority. We went with a "hydronic floor," which we've never regretted.
The floor is simply a concrete slab with 1 1/2-in. dia. black plastic pipe designed to withstand up to 200 psi running underneath the cement in about 1 ft. of sand. The water pipes running from our 125,000 Btu boiler are arranged at 4 ft. intervals in a circular design like a burner on a stove.
First, 1 in. of styrofoam was laid for insulation. Then, sand was brought in and dumped on top of the styrofoam. Then pipe was laid in the sand and sand was compacted. Then plastic was laid down to keep the concrete from drying too fast when it was poured and to act as a moisture barrier. Next reinforcements were put in. Concrete was poured to an average depth of 4 in. over the main portion of the floor but deeper around the sides to support the weight of the special rafters. Then R-20 styrofoam went around the periphery of the floor. Next, 1/2-in. thick pressure treated plywood went over the styrofoam so moisture from the ground wouldn't damage the styrofoam. Finally, an area around the floor was backfilled for additional insulating value.
All the work paid off. We're able to walk on the floor in our stocking feet without a hint of a chill on the very coldest winter days.
Moreover, our heating and electrical bills only comes to about $2,000 a year. Re-member, this is a large house - some 2,700 sq. ft. Of course, some of the energy savings come from the triple-glazed windows on the southeast facing wall which permit solar energy to heat our home from May to September.
Incidentally, we got a $3,000 grant from our utility company, Saskatchewan Power, to help build our "passive solar" home. Nick F. Rogalski, Box 1647, Melville, Sask., Canada S0A 2P0.
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Passive Solar House FARM HOME Building Techniques 19-1-36 In 1982, when my wife and I decided to build a large 46-ft. by 60-ft. "passive solar" house with 26 ft. high specially constructed arch rafters, finding an efficient heating system became a priority. We went with a "hydronic floor," which we've never regretted.
The floor is simply a concrete slab with 1 1/2-in. dia. black plastic pipe designed to withstand up to 200 psi running underneath the cement in about 1 ft. of sand. The water pipes running from our 125,000 Btu boiler are arranged at 4 ft. intervals in a circular design like a burner on a stove.
First, 1 in. of styrofoam was laid for insulation. Then, sand was brought in and dumped on top of the styrofoam. Then pipe was laid in the sand and sand was compacted. Then plastic was laid down to keep the concrete from drying too fast when it was poured and to act as a moisture barrier. Next reinforcements were put in. Concrete was poured to an average depth of 4 in. over the main portion of the floor but deeper around the sides to support the weight of the special rafters. Then R-20 styrofoam went around the periphery of the floor. Next, 1/2-in. thick pressure treated plywood went over the styrofoam so moisture from the ground wouldn't damage the styrofoam. Finally, an area around the floor was backfilled for additional insulating value.
All the work paid off. We're able to walk on the floor in our stocking feet without a hint of a chill on the very coldest winter days.
Moreover, our heating and electrical bills only comes to about $2,000 a year. Re-member, this is a large house - some 2,700 sq. ft. Of course, some of the energy savings come from the triple-glazed windows on the southeast facing wall which permit solar energy to heat our home from May to September.
Incidentally, we got a $3,000 grant from our utility company, Saskatchewan Power, to help build our "passive solar" home. Nick F. Rogalski, Box 1647, Melville, Sask., Canada SOA 2P0.
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