2004 - Volume #28, Issue #3, Page #20
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Tractor Mounted V-Blade
He started by having a machine shop put a 5-in. curve in two pieces of steel 3/16-in. thick and 8 ft. long by 30 in. high.
"The only difficulty was cutting the correct curve in the nose of the plow in order to weld the two pieces together," recalls Hall. "I had both a radius and a compound angle to deal with."
Hall cut a 5-in. radius in the nose of the steel pieces after they were bent and then tacked the two pieces together, leaving a gap at the top and bottom of the plow point. These gaps were filled in with extra steel.
"For extra strength, I took a piece of 3-in. angle iron and used a chop saw to cut a groove in it about every half inch," explains Hall. "I then welded one end to the top of the point, heated the rest to get the bend I wanted and welded it to the two 8-ft. plates where they met."
To keep the snowplow from digging into his asphalt driveway, Hall then welded a 3-in. wide piece of 1/2-in. steel at a 45_ angle up from the bottom of the plow point.
To hook the plow onto his John Deere loader, Hall made use of quicktach mounting brackets already installed on the loader arms. He welded a quick tach coupler on the inside back of the plow. To reinforce it, he ran 1-in. steel bar down from the front of the snowplow to the quick tach coupler.
"I finished it off with some fiberglass compound from the auto body store to round off the nose and make it smooth," explains Hall. "The snowplow works great on snow, and I think I could use it to work dirt or gravel too, but I haven't had the need."
Contact: FARM SHOW Followup, Kenneth Hall, RR 1, Box 46, Purdy, Mo. 65734 (ph 417 442-3843).
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