2010 - Volume #34, Issue #3, Page #38
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Lawn Tractor "Rotisserie"
Hast built it for a Deere 110 tractor he picked up cheap that needed lots of work. He wanted to have a way to move it around easily to store out of the way between the times he had to work on it.
"Plus, doing the engine work was a pleasure - no backaches," Hast says, because the tractor was off the ground about 30-in.
He started with two inexpensive 750-lb. engine stands, and a worm gear and bull gear from a 1-ton winch.
"Bore out the bull gear to slip over the engine stand shaft and weld it," Hast says. He welded it "sloppy" so it turns freely. "Mount the gear drive below the bull gear."
He welded two nuts inside the arms of the engine stand and bolted it to the tractor's front draft plate.
For the back of the tractor, Hast welded short pieces of 1 1/2-in square tubing to the stand arms and bolted them to the tractor's transmission. Hast notes he would make the tubing a couple of inches longer for more stability if he were to build it again.
A piece of 1 1/2-in. square tubing connects the two stands. To create the right width for his 110 Deere, Hast cut an 18-in. piece and put 2 in. of both ends in the stands and bolted them. The length will vary according to the model tractor the rotisserie is designed for.
Hast uses a hoist to lift the tractor to attach it to the engine mounts. He cranks the gear drive to turn the tractor in any position he wants. It holds without any extra locking system.
While it worked out, Hast would make changes if he built it again. He'd buy better quality stands - ones with bearings would be the best. Hast spent about $200 to purchase the engine stands, winch and castors.
He offers one last suggestion: Grease up the rotating parts of the engine stands so the plates spin easily - before you mount the tractor.
Contact: FARM SHOW Followup, Gary Hast, 7334 Helms Circle, Pinson, Ala. 35126 (ph 256 609-7353; hogrster@yahoo.com).
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