2014 - Volume #38, Issue #3, Page #23
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Classy Cordwood Flooring
“I kind of like doing things nobody else has,” says Steve Lee, who works at J & J Lee Construction Company, a home construction, remodeling and masonry business started by his parents.
He installed the 600 sq. ft. floor a decade ago, and the only sign of wear is around the fireplace where shrinking and swelling has caused minor cracks in the finish.
Lee started with very dry hardwood — two-sided beams salvaged from a 100-year-old barn. He cut the 8-ft. beams into manageable 3-ft. lengths, clamped and braced them vertically, and sawed them in 5/8-in. thick slices “like a loaf of bread” from the top down with a band saw. The thickness made the pieces strong enough to hold together, and the saw could be calibrated easily, dropping 3/4 in. at a time.
After placing the pieces 1/2 to 3/4 in. apart on the plywood subfloor, Lee worked on small sections at a time to spread construction adhesive and glue the wood slices down. After they set, he filled in the spaces with commercial tile grout mixed with about 20 percent sawdust he had saved.
“The fine sawdust was a good filler so I didn’t need as much grout, and it gives the grout a fibered look,” Lee says. Sawdust in the mortar is recommended for cordwood construction to slow the drying process to prevent cracking.
If Lee were to do it again, he says he would have sealed the wood first. The dry wood sucked in the grout, and Lee spent about 12 hours with an industrial sander using extra coarse to finer grit sandpapers.
“My goal was to sand it nice and smooth, but I ended up sanding just to get the grout off. If I sealed it first, the grout wouldn’t stick to the wood so badly,” Lee says.
His final step was applying several coats of a commercial varnish sealer to get the gloss he wanted. He hasn’t done anything to it since, but notes he will have to refinish it someday just like any other hardwood floor.
“I’ve had calls from people who want to put cordwood over cement. I tell them to make sure they use the proper glue to work with their surface,” Lee says.
He also advises waiting a week after the final coat of varnish is applied before moving in furniture, as it is soft and weight can leave indents in the floor.
“It’s a time consuming deal from when you get the wood cut, laid, sanded and varnished,” he notes. “But it turned out pretty neat.”
For information about cordwood construction, he consulted with Richard Flatau, a cordwood construction expert who puts on workshops and writes newsletters and blogs about the topic. Lee suggests reading Flatau’s book “Cordwood Construction Best Practices” available at (www.cordwoodconstruction.org or richardflatau@gmail.com).
Contact: FARM SHOW Followup, Steve Lee, J&J Lee Construction, W4997 Lincoln Dr., Merrill, Wis. 54452 (ph 715 536-3600; jerwal28@yahoo.com).
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