2014 - Volume #38, Issue #5, Page #42
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Big Cab, Little Tractor
He used bed frame angle iron to build the frame. “I built it 1/2 to 3/4 in. larger than the tractor’s body because I didn’t want the cab to scratch the tractor,” says Kuyper. “I packed foam rubber strips into the gaps between the frame and body, which makes the cab almost airtight.”
The cab has plexiglass windows. “The front window and upper side windows are double paned so they won’t fog up,” notes Kuyper.
He found a small catalytic heater like the ones used in ice fishing houses and mounted it in a corner of the cab, next to the steering wheel. “The catalytic heater will last more than one winter on a small tank of fuel. It keeps me toasty warm. In fact, if the sun comes out while I’m working it can get so warm that I have to take off my coat.”
To make it easy to remove the cab for summer, he welded 2 small angle iron pieces onto the cab that extend out the back. The angle irons have holes in the end that pin onto a 2 by 4 wooden frame on the ground.
“I remove 5 mounting bolts and then use a boat trailer winch to tip the cab back onto the wood frame, which pulls the front of the cab up. I raise the cab just high enough to clear the steering wheel and seat,” says Kuyper. “Then I drive the tractor out from under the cab.”
Kuyper gave a photo of his cab-mounted tractor to a local Deere dealer. “He wanted to know if I would build the cab for other people, but I told him it would be too much work for the money I could get. However, it really works good for me.”
Contact: FARM SHOW Followup, Harry Kuyper, 13249 Indian Rd., Kewadin, Mich. 49648 (ph 231 498-2074).
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