Californian Growing Agave For Spirits
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Will California earn a reputation for producing a U.S. version of tequila and mezcal, just as it has developed a following for its wines? A few farmers hope so as they experiment with a new crop—agave. The heart inside the leaves of the spiky succulent is used in Mexico to make mezcal and tequila. While those spirit brands are regional and name-protected, U.S. distilleries can come up with their own blends and names for similar spirits.
Past droughts and limited access to water are a couple of the driving forces behind California growers experimenting with agave.
“We’ve lost reliable water supplies, and the state has new restrictions on groundwater pumping, so we know we’re likely to have fallow land, and we’re trying to figure out what to do with farmland in a hot, dry area,” says Stuart Woolf, who grows almonds, pistachios, tomatoes, and other crops in western Fresno County.
Tequila and mezcal are popular spirits in the U.S., likely to surpass vodka in dollar value as the most popular spirit.
“It’s a newly emerging crop, and there’s a lot of buzz and excitement about it,” Woolf says, adding that recent symposiums at UC Davis about agave attracted many producers.
After trying 12 different agave varieties in a test plot 3 years ago, he planted 185 acres with 200,000 plants this past season and he continues to buy offshoots (hijuelos or clones) from Mexican plants. Agave can also be started from seed.
While the low water requirement (3 or 4 in. per year) is a big advantage, and pruning and pollinators aren’t needed, California growers face other challenges and are adapting their growing techniques.
In Mexico, where cheap labor is plentiful, agave rows are planted close together. Distilleries hire workers to hand-harvest them by cutting off the leaves to get to the agave heart.
Though it’ll be 5 to 7 years before they harvest, Woolf and his team are focused on mechanizing the process. They planted on 12-ft. centers, allowing the use of vineyard equipment between the rows. Because it’s a new crop, there are no registered chemicals, so organic methods are used. Another challenge is pest control; gophers love the sweet agave.
“Agave is super cool because instead of photosynthesis during daylight hours, it does its business at night and opens its stomata (pores) and absorbs dew. It goes dormant during the day and retains moisture in its leaves,” Woolf says.
However, he’s also adding drip irrigation that adds a couple of extra inches of water per year to hopefully mature agave in 5 years instead of the 7 to 8 years required in Mexico. The system also allows for efficient fertilization, reducing the need for foliar treatments commonly done by hand in Mexico.
The goal is to also produce and sell clones from plants grown in California, avoiding the long, risky hauls from Mexico.
“We want to set the bar really high,” Woolf says.
Growers are working with Craig Reynolds and the California Agave Council to set guidelines for distilled products as well as marketing, research, and legislation.
“This is a kind of fun experiment for California agriculture. We’re not waiting for the government to solve our water issues, we’re putting the power in our own hands,” Woolf says.
Contact: FARM SHOW Followup, Stuart Woolf (swoolf@woolffarming.com) or Craig Reynolds, California Agave Council, 1415 L St., Suite 460, Sacramento, Calif. 95814 (ph 530-304-7520; info@californiaagave.org; www.californiaagave.org).
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Californian Growing Agave For Spirits CROPS New Techniques Will California earn a reputation for producing a U S version of tequila and mezcal just as it has developed a following for its wines? A few farmers hope so as they experiment with a new crop—agave The heart inside the leaves of the spiky succulent is used in Mexico to make mezcal and tequila While those spirit brands are regional and name-protected U S distilleries can come up with their own blends and names for similar spirits Past droughts and limited access to water are a couple of the driving forces behind California growers experimenting with agave “We’ve lost reliable water supplies and the state has new restrictions on groundwater pumping so we know we’re likely to have fallow land and we’re trying to figure out what to do with farmland in a hot dry area ” says Stuart Woolf who grows almonds pistachios tomatoes and other crops in western Fresno County Tequila and mezcal are popular spirits in the U S likely to surpass vodka in dollar value as the most popular spirit “It’s a newly emerging crop and there’s a lot of buzz and excitement about it ” Woolf says adding that recent symposiums at UC Davis about agave attracted many producers After trying 12 different agave varieties in a test plot 3 years ago he planted 185 acres with 200 000 plants this past season and he continues to buy offshoots hijuelos or clones from Mexican plants Agave can also be started from seed While the low water requirement 3 or 4 in per year is a big advantage and pruning and pollinators aren’t needed California growers face other challenges and are adapting their growing techniques In Mexico where cheap labor is plentiful agave rows are planted close together Distilleries hire workers to hand-harvest them by cutting off the leaves to get to the agave heart Though it’ll be 5 to 7 years before they harvest Woolf and his team are focused on mechanizing the process They planted on 12-ft centers allowing the use of vineyard equipment between the rows Because it’s a new crop there are no registered chemicals so organic methods are used Another challenge is pest control; gophers love the sweet agave “Agave is super cool because instead of photosynthesis during daylight hours it does its business at night and opens its stomata pores and absorbs dew It goes dormant during the day and retains moisture in its leaves ” Woolf says However he’s also adding drip irrigation that adds a couple of extra inches of water per year to hopefully mature agave in 5 years instead of the 7 to 8 years required in Mexico The system also allows for efficient fertilization reducing the need for foliar treatments commonly done by hand in Mexico The goal is to also produce and sell clones from plants grown in California avoiding the long risky hauls from Mexico “We want to set the bar really high ” Woolf says Growers are working with Craig Reynolds and the California Agave Council to set guidelines for distilled products as well as marketing research and legislation “This is a kind of fun experiment for California agriculture We’re not waiting for the government to solve our water issues we’re putting the power in our own hands ” Woolf says Contact: FARM SHOW Followup Stuart Woolf swoolf@woolffarming com or Craig Reynolds California Agave Council 1415 L St Suite 460 Sacramento Calif 95814 ph 530-304-7520; info@californiaagave org; www californiaagave org
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