2012 - Volume #36, Issue #2, Page #42
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This Broadfork Won't Bend
“The general idea is similar to commercial broadforks, but I made mine with 3/16-in. thick tines mounted on 2 1/2-in. square steel tubing,” says Seys. “I used heavy-duty, 48-in. long, 1-in. dia. steel pipe for the handles. It’s heavy duty, but it’s not too heavy, and it slides right into the ground.”
The pipes are bolted to an L-shaped piece of steel welded to the square steel tubing that holds the tines. The lip on the shorter leg of the L wraps partially around the pipe to reinforce it. Seys’ first attempt used lighter weight pipe for handles and 1/2-in. bolts for tines. The bolts were too hard to get into the ground. He switched to 11-in. long, flat steel rectangles that he cut on the diagonal to get sharpened points. While he didn’t need to sharpen them, he did find they bent if they hit a rock.
“I heated them red hot and then dipped them in water and that seemed to help,” explains Seys. “I’ve also considered putting a 30 to 45° angle on the last inch or two to make a stronger tip. Right now they have a 10 to 15° angle."
Seys uses his broadfork in his conventional garden to break up compacted footpaths and zones around tomato plants. He pulls up chunks of compacted ground as the loose dirt falls between the tines.
"In the fall, I spread animal manure and compost over the top of the garden and then work it with my broadfork," says Seys. "As I fork it, a lot of the manure and compost drops into the soil profile while I am getting root clumps out of the ground."
Seys says using it is satisfying, as is knowing he fabricated it himself. "I made it to save money, but I like working with it," he says.
Contact: FARM SHOW Followup, Roger Seys, 19617 607th Ave., Mankato, Minn. 56001 (ph 507 245-3270; ramjets1@hickorytech.net).
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