«Previous    Next»
How To Make A Used Tire Water Tank
Anyone wanting to turn a tire into a cattle tank should talk to Herschel George. The retired Kansas State University extension watershed specialist is still working with the university and teaching farmers and ranchers how to do the job right.
“I’ve been turning tires into tanks for over 20 years,” says George. “I put the first one in on my brother’s place, and it still works fine. The guidelines really haven’t changed in the past 10 years.”
George shared those guidelines with Loretta Sorensen in a very in-depth article in the Summer 2024 issue of Working Ranch. He reviewed key points to consider with FARM SHOW.
“Our objective is to prevent cows from drinking directly from a creek or pond,” says George. This prevents wear and tear on the pond and creek edges and protects water quality. Researchers have found that 80 percent of cows prefer drinking from a tank.”
George works with both pressurized and gravity flow systems and how to adapt them to a low-cost tire tank. The major difference is the type of valve used.
Regardless of the water source, farmers’ and ranchers’ most common question concerns cutting the tire. A close second is where to get the valves.
In the Working Ranch article, he details what to trim and how and the type of blade to use on a reciprocating saw. He prefers very coarse Milwaukee blades like the Ax. Keeping the blade lubricated is essential, and George suggests applying a mix of liquid dish soap and water to the blade while cutting 6 to 8 in. off the top-side sidewall.
When it comes to valves, he recommends the Watson valve for gravity systems and valves from Jobe or Apex for pressurized systems.
Preparing the ground is key once waterlines have been laid to the preferred site. That entails firming and leveling the soil, followed by a layer of geotextile and then gravel. The goal is a slightly raised area. However, if gravity-fed, ensure the variation in height between the bottom of the tank and the water source level is at least 4 ft.
Geotextile should also be used under gravel placed around the tank. It helps prevent the rock from sinking into the dirt and maintains a comfortable dry area around the tank.
“If the tank sidewall is 30 in. high, I may raise the ground level around it so only 12 to 20 in. is exposed,” says George.
Once the tire is in place and the pipes raised to the correct height, dirt or gravel can be added to the center area. George recommends leaving 4 to 6 in. of space for the concrete. To ensure a good seal, he suggests smearing the tire bead and pipes with silicone just before adding concrete.
Another trick of the trade is adding water to the tire after pouring the concrete. “Adding water to 2 in. above the concrete slows curing and ensures the concrete hydrates,” says George. “I suggest letting it cure for at least a week. If the water holds overnight, you know it’ll hold for years.”
George suggests interested FARM SHOW readers download “Waterers and Watering Systems: A Handbook for Livestock Producers and Landowners.” The 173-page book is available at no cost from Kansas State University.
Contact: FARM SHOW Followup, Herschel George, 33066 Lookout Rd., Paola, Kan. 66071 (ph 913-294-6021; hgeorge@ksu.edu; https://bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/pubs/S147.pdf).


  Click here to download page story appeared in.



  Click here to read entire issue




To read the rest of this story, download this issue below or click here to register with your account number.
Order the Issue Containing This Story
2024 - Volume #48, Issue #5